It was Coco herself who mentioned trend displays the world we dwell in. However whereas a lot of trend week holds up a mirror to the present period of rolling controversy and outrage – at Schiaparelli, a foam lion’s head worn by Kylie Jenner provoked social media fury from distressed animal lovers, till the president of Peta rode unexpectedly to couture’s rescue by saying the look “celebrates lion’s magnificence” – Chanel is the quiet eye of the storm.
Virginie Viard, who changed the good showman Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel 4 years in the past, has launched an understated temper right here. The animals of Coco’s elegant Paris residence – the place marble lions stood guard alongside pairs of carved picket deer, and a fortunate gold frog took satisfaction of place on a espresso desk – have been the theme for her newest high fashion present.
In distinction to Schiaparelli’s Instagram-bait of Kardashians and faux-taxidermy, the Trojan camels, stags and birds at Chanel have been summary plywood sculptures by artist Xavier Veilhan, and the fashions who emerged from them wore demure glitter tweed fits. Drama got here with a lightweight contact, in circus-master prime hats and bow ties worn as chokers.
Nonetheless, Chanel could have the lion’s share of the highlight this yr. A serious exhibition on the Metropolitan Museum in New York honoring the profession of Lagerfeld, who spent 4 many years at Chanel, can be adopted by a significant retrospective of Coco herself on the V&A in London later this yr. Backstage earlier than the present, Chanel’s president of trend, Bruno Pavlovsky, mentioned he had “seen the structure of the Met exhibition – it’s unbelievable. I labored with Karl for a few years, and he was ceaselessly speaking concerning the newest Met present. I actually cherished the museum.”
Pavlovsky was additionally ready to find which of Chanel’s purple carpet ambassadors would obtain Oscar nominations. Final yr was a profitable award season for Chanel, who dressed finest actress nominees Kristen Stewart and Penélope Cruz.
“We’ve got unbelievable actors who may help speak about our model, so anytime once we may help them to be at their finest is essential for us,” Pavlovsky mentioned. “We attempt to place ourselves as a supportive companion – it’s a case of no matter they need, when they need it.”
Chanel’s relationship with Hollywood started in 1931, when Gabrielle Chanel was invited by film mogul Sam Goldwyn, who despatched a welcoming celebration that included Greta Garbo to fulfill her from her practice.
Chanel will stage a significant Cruise catwalk present in Los Angeles in Might, one week after the Met Gala launches the Lagerfeld exhibition. “In New York, we have fun 40 years of Karl – after which we head straight to LA to indicate a brand new assortment and discuss concerning the future. It will likely be a busy week for everybody, particularly with [the coronation of] Charles III in between. However you can’t be Chanel simply by staying in an residence on the primary ground of the first arrondissement of Paris.”
In September, the V&A will showcase “the fashionable fashion of an period when star designers, of whom Mademoiselle Chanel was one, outlined a lot of recent trend”, mentioned Pavlovsky. “For me, there isn’t a contradiction between the previous and way forward for Chanel.”