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Can Body Denim Be a Trend Model?

  • FASHION

THE ANGELS – There’s maybe no higher place to observe Hollywood working than the Beverly Hills Resort’s Polo Lounge at 9am on a Friday morning, and the group behind denim model Body — co-founder and artistic director Erik Torstensson and CEO Nicolas Dreyfus — have positioned themselves at a lacquered wooden sales space within the heart of all of it.

In walks a Birkin-toting Nicky Hilton Rothschild, quickly to be joined by her buddy, Oscar de la Renta designer Fernando Garcia. Out walks Snapchat’s SVP of content material, Ben Schwerin, with Bob Iger, simply days earlier than it was introduced that he would come out of retirement to rejoin Disney as its CEO. Torstensson and Dreyfus obtain nods, and alternate a couple of hellos. Quickly sufficient, founding father of RXBar, Peter Rahal, is standing at their desk, keen to point out off the tag on his T-shirt. He is sporting head-to-toe Body, he says, and Torstensson is delighted.

“I could not have organized it higher,” he laughs.

Rahal’s impromptu look definitely tucks neatly into Torstensson’s fastidiously crafted narrative. Body, the premium denim enterprise that he began with Jens Grede in 2013, when shoppers have been extra eager about Lululemon leggings than denims, not solely succeeded however thrived, turning into a life-style model rooted in denim, somewhat than a denim model with nothing else to say .

Now, Tortensson needs style credibility, and he is employed a yet-to-be-named designer — a heavyweight from Europe, he says — to offer the collections an actual id in 2023. There are plans to stage a runway present. Can Dreyfus and Torstensson go the place no denim model has convincingly gone earlier than — out of Los Angeles, no much less? (Diesel, whose designer, Glenn Martens, is critically lauded, will be the one exception.) Torstensson says it will be a “mixture of what Paris does greatest — in relation to the whole lot from picture to garments and merchandise — and what California and LA has when it comes to expertise and modernity,” which, if executed correctly, might consequence within the “most fun factor in American style.”

Financially, Body Denim is in a strong place. In 2022, the corporate generated about $170 million in gross sales, up 50 % from pre-pandemic ranges. (The corporate declined to share 2021 figures.) Profitability on an EBITDA (earnings earlier than curiosity, taxes, depreciation and amortization) foundation is up greater than 90 % from 2019, partially because of a tripling of e-commerce gross sales. (The enterprise now generates 30 % of its income by means of direct-to-consumer channels, up from 20 % pre-pandemic.)

Regardless of the difficult financial system, Dreyfus, who joined the enterprise in March 2020 after co-founding (and promoting) French up to date model The Kooples, is assured that Body can proceed constructing out its expertise bench in Los Angeles, recruiting not solely from different components of the US, but additionally internationally.

Torstensson credit Body’s early success to his and Grede’s ever-so-slightly unorthodox method. In 2012, the duo — then greatest generally known as the entrepreneurs behind the London-based inventive company The Saturday Group — selected to tackle a drained idea as a substitute of diving right into a scorching class. Premium denim from the likes of JBrand and Diesel dominated style within the 2000s, however few of these labels—largely run by producers, not model builders—had managed to remain high of thoughts with shoppers as they moved on to athleisure.

Torstensson and Grede led with model, introducing an ordinary skinny jean — the de-facto silhouette of the time — however positioning it as the selection of their supermodel mates. (A collaboration with Karlie Kloss on a pair of super-elongated flares in 2015 was an early win.)

A decade later, the denims are nonetheless promoting—making up half of the corporate’s total income—however Body has managed to do one thing out of the abnormal on your run-of-the-mill premium denims maker: get shoppers to purchase non-denim gadgets, too, like silk blouses and satin mini skirts.

“They’ve constructed a robust model round timeless, elevated versatility,” says Pete Nordstrom, president and chief model officer of his household’s namesake division retailer chain, including that Body gives “items which might be the middle” of the client’s wardrobe, and that the road “all the time feels related.”

Loads of that has to do with the early framework Torstensson and Grede established: Body was by no means a few sure type of jean, however as a substitute a method of life. Relaunching a males’s assortment after an preliminary misfire—the primary try was too centered on denim, Torstensson says—was a threat that has paid off. As a full-fledged, stand alone line, it nonetheless makes up a small portion of gross sales — Body declined to say how a lot — however is best positioned to develop.

For a lot of, the apparent subsequent step could be to promote the corporate as quickly because the market tilts extra favorably in the direction of sellers — or instantly, if the suitable deal comes alongside. Grede and his spouse, Emma, ​​now assist run the Kardashian empire by managing Skims and Good American, so he is much less concerned day-to-day. Dreyfus, who offered The Kooples to Lacoste-owner Maus Frères in 2019, is the form of govt who can assist arrange Body for that type of deal.

However Torstensson insists a sale is not the objective. “We completely don’t wish to promote the enterprise,” he says. As a substitute, he is centered on constructing Body Denim by persevering with to behave nothing like a denim model.

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